The History of History
Excavations at Idalion and the Changing History of a City-Kingdom
Pamela Gaber
W
hen the antiquarians of the nineteenth century turned
their sights on Cyprus, some ancient cities were
easier to locate than others. The site of the ancient
city-kingdom of Idalion was particularly easy to find, since its
name was preserved in its direct descendant, the village of Dhali.
The ancient city with its two limestone acropoleis lay on what
was a meander in the River Yialias, some twelve miles south of
the city-kingdom of Ledra (modern Nicosia). In the Late Roman
period, the river changed its course and the meander went out of
existence, leaving the site of the ancient city a third of a mile south
of the of the present river bed. Melchior de Vogüé, a Frenchman,
visited the site in 1862, but he did not preserve an exact record of
his work there (Tatton-Brown 2002:243). The first large-scale
treasure hunter to root in the fields around Dhali was General
Luigi Palma di Cesnola (di Cesnola 1877), the well-known
American consul to the Ottoman Empire in Cyprus.
The Lycoming College Expedition to Idalion has been excavating in the Lower City of the ancient site, visible here in the foreground, as well
as on the East Acropolis, Mouti tou Arvili, visible in the background with the bowl shape formed by the courtyard wall of the Adonis Temenos.
Photograph taken from the northwest looking southeast. Photos courtesy of the author unless otherwise indicated.
52 NEAR EASTERN ARCHAEOLOGY 71:1–2 (2008)
Di Cesnola worked at Dhali off and on during the years from 1867 through 1875.
He claims to have opened fifteen thousand tombs (di Cesnola 1877:66) and reports
that a structure on the summit of the East Acropolis had been exposed when he
arrived. He notes that local villagers informed him at the time that they had
removed large quantities of bronze finds including fragments of armor, “helmets,
swords, spear-heads, etc.” (di Cesnola 1877:98–101). Di Cesnola collected such
an enormous quantity of antiquities that his activities attracted the attention of
other foreigners on Cyprus. The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York was
founded almost entirely with the contents of his Cypriot collection.
The next foreigner to turn his attention to Dhali was R. Hamilton Lang, the
British consul based in Larnaca. In 1868 and 1869 Lang commissioned local
workers to hunt for antiquities on the East Acropolis of the ancient
city, a hill whose modern toponym is Mouti tou Arvili. They found
limestone statuary in the summer of 1868 and sent word to Lang
in Larnaca at his consulate. He arrived to oversee excavations for
two months that year, and again in1869. He published his finds
and an account of his activities in the Transactions of the Royal
Society of Literature (1878) and later in Blackwoods Edinburgh
Magazine (1905). These discoveries all belonged to a shrine, the
deity of which was identified as “Reshef-Mikal” in Phoenician
inscriptions, and as “Apollo Amyklos” in a Greek inscription
from the site.
The first to attempt to make a coherent history from finds
The limestone statuary, like this “King’s votary” discovered at
at Dhali was Max Ohnefalsch-Richter, a journalist and selfMouti tou Arvili, Idalion, all belonged to a shrine, the deity of
which was identified as “Reshef-Mikal” in Phoenician inscriptions,
taught archaeologist who later became Director of Antiquities.
and as “Apollo Amyklos” in a Greek inscription from the site. C154
Ohnefalsch-Richter dug at the site of ancient Idalion in 1883 and
British Museum, from Gaber Saletan (1986:19, pl. 27).
1885, and returned to the area numerous times in subsequent years.
Aphrodite sanctuary as envisioned by Max Ohnefalsch-Richter, an antiquarian of the late-nineteenth and early-twentieth centuries who walked
over and mapped many ancient sites, including Idalion. He notes that he found the remains of five sanctuaries, which he identified because of
the plethora of sculpture fragments. This is the sanctuary atop the east acropolis, Mouti tou Arvili. From Ohnefalsch-Richter (1893:pl. LVI).
NEAR EASTERN ARCHAEOLOGY 71:1–2 (2008) 53
He located a number of shrines over the course of his surveys
and some systematic excavation. Ohnefalsch-Richter refers to
a temenos on the southern end of the East Acropolis as “the
great chief sanctuary of the Idalion Aphrodite” (OhnefalschRichter 1893:pl. 5).
In general, he, like Lang, assumed a Greek culture for
ancient Idalion, although he did see some Near Eastern
influence in Cypriot material culture as a whole (hence the
somewhat grandiloquent title of his book: Kypros, the Bible,
and Homer, 1893).
Ohnefalsch-Richter was the last of the nineteenthcentury antiquarians, and the first of the twentieth-century
archaeologists to work at Dhali. His interest was born in the
antiquarian world, but his Ph.D. was a result of his ultimate
understanding that archaeological finds are not just booty, they
are the building blocks of history.
The Swedish Cyprus Expedition
At Idalion, the work of the Swedish Cyprus Expedition led
by Einar Gjerstad included a complete excavation of the upper
reaches of the West Acropolis (Ambelleri). They posited a
Late Cypriot III (1200–1050 BCE) founding for the structures
on that summit, and an occupation consisting of a fortified
settlement with a shrine. The succeeding Cypro-Geometric
I and II periods (1050–850 BCE ) yielded only some sherds
of pottery. However, the Swedish excavators felt that the
West Acropolis was again fortified in the Cypro-Geometric III
period and a new shrine with a court and an altar was built,
dedicated to the goddess Anat, identified with Greek Athena.
These structures lasted into the early Cypro-Classical period
(about 475 BCE; Gjerstad et al. 1935).
In addition to these extensive excavations, the Swedes dug
soundings on the terrace of Ambelleri and excavated some
tombs of the Cypro-Archaic to the Hellenistic period. These
tombs were located outside the fortification encircling the
Lower City. Gjerstad was convinced that the occupation of
Idalion ended in the Cypro-Archaic II period, around 470 BCE.
For scholars the immense importance of Gjerstad’s excavations
at Idalion includes the stratigraphic sequence that enabled
him to construct his ceramic typology with its chronological
sequence. This system, with modifications, still forms the basis
of the study of ancient Cypriot ceramics.
The general outline sketched by the Swedish team from
working at Idalion and other sites defined the scholarly dialogue
about the history of Cyprus that remains to this day. Implied in
Gjerstad’s narrative is an “Eteo-Cypriot” population, developed
in true insular fashion on the island from the Neolithic through
the third and into the second millennium BCE. It was these
native Cypriots who founded Idalion (and presumably the
other city-kingdoms) in the Late Cypriot III period (about
1200–1050 BCE). Gjerstad was already toying with his vision of
Cyprus as an island polarized between its Greek and Phoenician
populations. In later years that vision of tension between ethnic
groups became central to Gjerstad’s version of the sequence of
events and interrelationships on Cyprus in the first millennium
BCE (ef. Maier 1985). It is easy to understand, given the events
in Europe during the 1930s and 1940s, how Gjerstad’s world
view was shaped by the clash of European, post-Enlightenment
nation-states thus coloring his vision of ancient history.
It has generally come to be understood, however, that
notions of ethnicity in the ancient world would have been
very different. There is no longer any reason to imagine a clash
of ancient city-states along strictly ethnic lines. There were
certainly Eteo-Cypriots who spoke a non-Greek local language
and continued to live, work, and worship at Idalion from the
Late Cypriot through the Hellenistic and probably into the
Roman period alongside Greek speakers and during the times
when many inscriptions continued to be in Phoenician. At
least one non-Greek, Cypro-syllabic inscription has been
found among the houses of the Lower City at Idalion in
Hellenistic levels (Gaber and Bazemore 1999:237–42). In any
case, Gjerstad, having found no later remains on the West
Acropolis of Idalion, posited that the city went out of existence
as a kingdom in 470 BCE.
The Joint American Expedition to Idalion
Four kings issued coinage from Idalion between the late-sixth
century and the fifth century BCE. All the coins have a sphinx on one
side and a lotus or “incuse square” on the other. Photo from Masson
(1961:pl. XXXVIII).
54 NEAR EASTERN ARCHAEOLOGY 71:1–2 (2008)
In 1969 G. Ernest Wright of the Department of Near Eastern
Languages and Literatures at Harvard University arranged for
two of his graduate students, Lawrence E. Stager and Anita
Walker, to become co-directors of the excavations at Idalion.
In 1971 they arrived to carry out exploratory soundings and
surveys. The first major excavation season took place in 1972
and the multi-disciplinary investigations that took place during
those two seasons are reported in BASOR Supplement 19
(Stager, Walker, and Wright 1974).
From 1972 through 1978 the Joint American Expedition
carried out extensive surface survey, excavation, and sitecatchment analysis in the vicinity of Dhali. The specific progress
of the project along with a final excavation season in 1980, are
chronicled in the single volume of final publication (Stager and
Walker 1989).
Stager and Walker were convinced that while state-formation
processes were underway elsewhere on Cyprus, settlement at
Idalion was small scale during the Late Cypriot period (Stager
and Walker 1989:461). They agreed with Gjerstad’s team that
there was no settlement at “Idalion proper” during the CyproGeometric I and II periods. On the West Acropolis (on the
walls beneath the fortification walls) and in the Lower City
they found architecture of the Cypro-Geometric III and early
Cypro-Archaic periods. “Towards the end of the Cypro-Archaic
II (about 550–475 BCE) the fortifications on the West Terrace
were radically re-organized and the whole city enclosed with
a fortification wall” (Stager and Walker 1989:462). This area,
enclosed by the fortifications, was about forty hectares. Stager
estimated its population at eight to ten thousand people.
Stager and Walker addressed Gjerstad’s contention that
settlement on Idalion’s West Acropolis came to an end around
470 BCE. Stager conducted excavations on the terrace of the West
Acropolis in 1980 where he exposed an expanse of monumental
architecture, which he dubbed “the Palace.” This, he concluded,
was founded around 475 and saw a long period of use, thus
refuting Gjerstad’s date for the end of Idalion as a city-kingdom.
There was, however, a major destruction in that area around
450 BCE, and to understand it Stager and Walker turned to the
evidence of the sequence of coins minted at Idalion. The crux
of the sequence, the issue that confronts the dispute between
Gjerstad, who saw the kingdom of Idalion coming to an end in
470 BCE, and Stager and Walker, who saw the Kitian destruction
taking place in 450 BCE, centers, not unnaturally, on the coins
of the fifth century BCE. There are four kings who issued coinage
from Idalion between the late-sixth century to the fifth century
BCE. All of these are inscribed in Cypro-syllabic pa-si-le-u-s(e)
Plan of Idalion showing the different areas of excavation. After Gaber
and Dever (1996:fig. 2).
followed by an abbreviation of the king’s name. All have a
sphinx on one side and a lotus or “incuse square” on the other.
The first of these is not identifiable (Masson 1961:250–52).
The second is King Ki___, and the third is King Ka-ra___. As
Miranda Marvin puts it, “The last king to issue independent
coinage from Idalion . . . abbreviates his name as Sa___ has been
identified with the only king of Idalion known by his full name,
one Stasikypros” (Stager, Walker, and Wright 1974:xxii–xxv).
Stasikypros is famous because of an inscribed bronze tablet
found in 1850–1851 at Idalion, now in the Bibliotheque
Nationale (Masson 1961:234). The inscription details a grant of
land by King Stasikypros and the city of Idalion, and is significant
for a number of reasons. In the first place, in granting the land
Stasikypros did not act alone, and scholars posit some form of
mixed government—perhaps a council of some sort—working
alongside the king. In the second place, the tablet also mentions
a grant of land in nearby Alambra given to a physician named
Onasilos who, with his brother, worked without fees during an
unsuccessful attack on Idalion by “Medes and Kitians,” that is,
Phoenicians and the army of Kition. We know that Kition did
conquer Idalion some time during the reign of ‘Oziba’al, a king
of Kition, who, following the conquest, began to issue coins as
“King of Kition and Idalion.” (Soon after, he issued coins as
“King of Kition, Idalion, and Tamassos”; Gaber 1995:36).
It is the date of ªOzibaªal’s conquest of Idalion that is in
dispute. The bronze tablet was found on the West Acropolis of
Idalion, Ambelleri. Gjerstad posited that the unsuccessful siege
had taken place in 499/498 during the Ionian Revolt because
he was certain that the administrative center on the West
Acropolis was destroyed in 470 BCE and had immediately ceased
to function as an administrative center. (Gjerstad 1935:625–
26). Gjerstad’s dating, however, is problematic because it
overlooks the coinage. The trouble arises because King Ka___
of Idalion overstruck some coins originally issued by Baªalmilk
I of Kition, who is known to have begun to rule after 480 BCE,
meaning King Ka ___ could not have ruled until some point
after 480 BCE, at the very earliest, and King Stasikypros is at
least the third generation after King Ki___ (Hill 1940:153, pl.
V,5). So, unless the kings were dropping like flies, it is hard to
imagine four kings in ten years, all of whom were prosperous
and energetic enough to issue a substantial coin sequence.
The Joint American Expedition to Idalion discovered that
occupation on the terrace of Ambelleri, the West Acropolis,
continued down to the Hellenistic period. This removed the
constraint felt by the Swedes to cram all the known events into
the years before 470 BCE. The sequence of known kings of Idalion
in the late-sixth and early-fifth centuries BCE is now suggested
to be as follows (Stager, Walker, and Wright 1974:xxvi):
King (uncertain)
King Ki___ overstrikes
Coins of Baºlmilk (ca. 475–450)
King Ka ra___
King Sa___
ªOzibaªal (ca. 450–425) first king of Kition and Idalion
NEAR EASTERN ARCHAEOLOGY 71:1–2 (2008) 55
It is attractive, furthermore, to associate the fall of Idalion with
the triumph of the Phoenicians and the “disarray of the Greek
cities following the collapse of Cimon’s expedition in 449” (Hill
1940:123–25).
There can be little doubt that Kition wanted possession
of Idalion because of its role in the copper trade. (The same
is true for Tamassos.) To control the processing center was
to control the copper itself right from the mines to the ports
(Gaber 1995:35).
Great quantities of slag have been found at Late Bronze
Age city sites, although at some time in the following period
there was a shift away from smelting in the cities themselves
to smelting at mining sites. As demand for copper continued
to grow and as the amounts of timber near cities continued
to dwindle, it was a natural consequence that smelting would
shift to the forest areas near the mines (Stager, Walker, and
Wright 1974:177; Stager and Walker 1989). When the primary
smelting operations began to be carried out at the mining sites,
their product was carried to the nearby city for final processing
and production and shipping of ingots of copper to the coast for
international trade. Although the exact timing of the shift is
unknown, it is clear that by the Cypro-Archaic period primary
smelting took place near the mines.
The Joint American Expedition also conducted excavations
on the terrace of the East Acropolis, Mouti tou Arvili, in an
attempt to locate the “Apollo Temple” reported by R. Hamilton
Lang in the previous century. What they found included
gypsum-faced monumental architecture of the Hellenistic
period. It appears that when the Greeks took over Idalion (just
before 300 BCE) they founded a new administrative center on
Mouti tou Arvili (Stager, Walker, and Wright 1974:63–76).
On the terrace of the West Acropolis, Ambelleri, Stager and
Walker found a Hellenistic industrial installation overlying
the earlier Archaic monumental architecture, which further
supports the abandonment of the West Terrace administrative
complex just before 300 BCE.
It was left for the following American Expedition under my
direction, and the Department of Antiquities excavations under
Maria Hadjicosti to fill in some of the historical gaps before
and after the floruit of the Archaic administrative center on
Ambelleri.
The University of New Hampshire Excavations
On the north side of the street on the West Acropolis, a meter-deep
level of destruction debris lay atop the 450 BCE street, twenty-six
centimeters under which was found a worn curbstone dating to
about 600 BCE. Here the massive ashlar sandstone blocks of the
northern structure are evident.
56 NEAR EASTERN ARCHAEOLOGY 71:1–2 (2008)
In 1987 I received a permit from the Department of
Antiquities of Cyprus, then directed by Vassos Karageorghis,
to excavate Idalion. A single exploratory season under the
auspices of the University of New Hampshire unearthed
surprising results. Soundings were undertaken on the terrace
of the West Acropolis where Stager’s “palace” met the street
level under the 450 BCE destruction debris. In the Lower City,
a sounding was dug in a room of a building called “Building B”
where extensive ash and destruction debris had been uncovered
in 1978, but not excavated (Gaber 1992:167–72).
The soundings on the terrace of the West Acropolis were
placed in one case against the monumental architecture on
the south side of the street, and in the other against a buttress
at the sandstone face of the architecture on the north side
of the street. The two soundings produced widely divergent
results. The southern sounding showed that that structure, as
Stager had contended, was founded in the first quarter of the
fifth century BCE. Indeed, the street level at the time of the
destruction was only a few centimeters above the founding
levels of this southern building.
The northern sounding revealed a completely different
history. The street level dating to about 450 BCE was covered
with upwards of a meter of massive destruction debris, below
which was found a series of street surfaces from a depth of
twenty-five centimeters, at which point another curbstone was
revealed. This earlier curb was an integral part of the northern
structure, at a level of the street dating to about 600 BCE; it was
extremely worn and must have been in place for a considerable
time at that date.
Our sounding in the Lower City revealed a destruction level,
but it was a localized fire in Building B, which was used for oliveoil production. Traces of the burned areas can be seen in this
photograph, just to the left of and behind the meter stick, on the
remains of the mud-plaster floors.
The deep sounding in the foreground of this aerial view of Building B
in the Lower City reveals a very deep wall that lies just east of the
fragmentary field-stone eastern limit of Building B. The northern wall
of Building B extends off into the distance, with a cross wall and a
well head indicating the courtyard of the building.
Clearly, then, the building on the south side of the street,
founded around 475 BCE , was not in existence when the
northern building was constructed some time before 600
BCE . We did not find the founding levels of that northern
building and in 1991 the Department of Antiquities took
over excavations of the administrative center on the West
Acropolis, Ambelleri, under the direction of Maria Hadjicosti.
To date they have not pursued the question of the founding
levels of the northern structure. Suffice it to say, however,
that because the curbstone associated with the 600 BCE
street level was severely worn and clearly continued down
below that street level, the foundation date for the northern
building was, at latest, in the seventh century BCE, and very
possibly earlier.
Certainly then, in the Cypro-Geometric period, no later
than the seventh century BCE, Idalion commanded sufficient
wealth to erect massive monumental buildings of sandstone
not native to the immediate vicinity. The sandstone used to
construct these massive walls—in some places more than a
meter thick—was not the soft, crumbling chalk found nearby.
Rather it is hard, compact stone of the sort found to the north in
the foothills of the Kyrenia Mountains, or to the south outside
Larnaca (ancient Kition). In either case, the vast quantity of
stone needed for the construction of such an administrative
center had to be transported about thirty kilometers. Add
to that the fact that the blocks are often square in section,
and expertly dressed, and a picture emerges of wealth and
specialized skills that must have taken significant time to
develop. In other words, by the time this “North Building” on
the terrace of the West Acropolis was constructed, no later
than the seventh century BCE, Idalion was a thriving, wealthy
city whose population was already highly specialized. How
long did such prosperity take to develop? It’s hard to say, but
we can state with certainty that the North Building was not
built in a day. . . .
So much for the early history revealed in the West Acropolis
soundings. The huge structures came to a violent end around
450 BCE (Stager and Walker 1989:3, fig. 3, pl. 2a). Immediately
atop the destruction debris left behind and with no visible
hiatus, structures were erected of a less monumental nature.
The Department of Antiquities excavations would soon reveal
the nature of those new structures.
The Lower City sounding of the 1987 excavations revealed
quite the opposite phenomenon. What at first appeared to be
destruction debris turned out to be a completely localized fire
in one room of Building B used for olive oil production (Gaber
1992:176; Gaber and Dever 1996:92–99). A larger, far more
elaborate oil production complex was immediately rebuilt on
the same location, while the rest of Building B continued in use
without interruption well into the Hellenistic period.
The picture that thus emerges is one of Kition conquering
Idalion and throwing down the fortifications and administrative
center. The domestic and industrial structures in the Lower
City at the time were unmolested.
NEAR EASTERN ARCHAEOLOGY 71:1–2 (2008) 57
Subsequent excavations by the University of Arizona
and Lycoming College under my direction from 1992–2005
demonstrated that the industrial activity in the Lower City of
Idalion continued without interruption from the Late Cypriot
II period (twelfth century BCE) down at least to the Roman
period of the second century BCE.
The Department of Antiquities Excavations
The Department of Antiquities excavations under the
direction of Maria Hadjicosti discovered a Phoenician
administrative complex immediately above the destroyed
Cypriot monumental architecture, founded around 450 BCE
(Hadjicosti 1999:33–55). They also found a Late Cypriot
and Geometric industrial complex on the lower slopes of
Ambelleri that sheds light into what has hitherto been only a
dimly perceived period of Cypriot history. In the mid 1990s
Hadjicosti oversaw the removal of some huts there and as soon
as the topsoil was removed a series of enigmatic, apparently
burnt, rings appeared.
A fascinating complex was uncovered that may have been for
the manufacturing of pithoi. In deep pits lined with pot sherds
and fragments of stone, it seems the huge pots were constructed
and fired. Immediately atop the Late Cypriot installations there
appeared fragmentary Geometric and more substantial CyproArchaic architecture, once again attesting to the continued
activity at Idalion at the end of the second and the beginning of
the first millennia BCE.
The third period to be illuminated by the Department of
Antiquities excavations is the Hellenistic period. In 1992
Hadjicosti undertook salvage excavations in connection
with the laying of water pipes under the main road through
Dhali to Limpia when she uncovered extensive Hellenistic
structures, evidently the “Lower City” during the floruit of the
gypsum-faced administrative complex on the terrace of the East
Acropolis, Mouti tou Arvili.
The field-stone altar atop the bothros is on a mud-plaster surface.
When we followed that surface toward the vertical section at the east
end of the trench, we came upon a burnt offering in a jar, visible here
just beside the meter stick, peeking out of the baulk.
58 NEAR EASTERN ARCHAEOLOGY 71:1–2 (2008)
The University of Arizona and Lycoming College
Excavations
To introduce the most significant find of the early 1990s
it is necessary to backtrack a bit. It may be recalled that R.
Hamilton Lang reported finding a “Temple of Apollo” on Mouti
tou Arvili, the East Acropolis of Idalion. He never located his
finds on a map, however, stating only that going South toward
Limpia the temple lies to the left of the road (Lang 1878:32).
No one appears actually to have seen his excavated trenches
after traveler Colonna-Ceccaldi (Colonna-Ceccaldi1882). Max
Ohnefalsch-Richter placed a number “6” beside the road on
his plan of Idalion (Ohnefalsch-Richter 1893:pl. V), and called
it “temple found by Lang.” Later the Swedes reproduced that
plan (Gjerstad et al. 1935:plan IV). In 1972 Stager and Walker
decided to investigate “Lang’s Temple.” Accordingly, they sank
trenches at the location indicated on Ohnefalsch-Richter’s,
and Gjerstad’s plans. What they found were the undisturbed
remains of a Roman villa; in particular its bath house. They
decided that perhaps the location of the road had shifted in
the intervening hundred years since Lang’s excavations. This
led them to place probe trenches on the western side of the
road just under the terrace of the West Acropolis in what is
to this day an almond grove. I was privileged as a graduate
student to direct the excavation of those soundings, in which
we uncovered the Roman road. Clearly, then, “Lang’s Temple”
was not here, either.
It was soon after that that Stager had an inspiration. He
pointed out that geologists all note that the Troodos Massif
contains rocks from deep under the Earth’s crust, making it
a major magnetic anomaly. Stager reasoned that hand-held
compasses at the turn of the last century would not have
been able to compensate for the twelve (or so) degrees their
readings would have been skewed by the pull of the Troodos’s
ultra-basic rocks. From Ohnefalsch-Richter’s “6” making the
supposed spot of “Lang’s Temple,” Stager worked out that the
This Black-on-Red bowl from the eighth century BCE was found in
the bothros.
The Lower City Temenos contained religious features more frequently
found in the Near East, including stones standing vertically within the
sacred space, here shown in situ.
twelve degrees would translate into 225 meters on the ground.
He sank trenches on the terrace of the East Acropolis 225
meters southeast of the spot marked on Ohnefalsch-Richter’s
plan as the site of “Lang’s Temple.” That was how the Joint
American Expedition found the Hellenistic administrative
center (Doermann 1974:63–75).
It was in 1992 that the University of Arizona Expedition,
under my direction, found the steps of the complex that had
been referred to for 120 years as “Lang’s Temple” (Gaber and
Morden 1992:21–30). The 1992 to 2001 excavations on the
terrace of Mouti tou Arvili revealed an extensive outdoor
sanctuary founded in the late Geometric or early Archaic
period. The temenos was in continuous use through the Roman
period (Gaber and Dever 1996:99–110; 1998:48). It is apparent
that the sanctuary was dedicated to the Wanax, or “Lord” in
the Eteo-Cypriot pantheon, consort of the Wanasa, “Lady”
(J. Karageorghis 1977). Recently these two deities—at least as
they were worshipped in the Mesaoria Plain of Cyprus—have
been identified as the Master and Mistress of Animals (Counts
2003:235; 2004:173). It has been demonstrated elsewhere
that the Wanax, or “Master of Animals” of the native Cypriot
Similar to the standing stones at Idalion are these from the site of Arad in Israel. Here they have been re-erected and their original position is
unknown, but the standing stones at Idalion, found in situ, may provide some clues. Photo by permission of the Biblical Archaeology Society.
NEAR EASTERN ARCHAEOLOGY 71:1–2 (2008) 59
pantheon very likely came to be called “Adonis,” perhaps in
the Hellenistic period; certainly by the Roman era (Gaber
and Morden 1992; Gaber 1995; Gaber and Dever 1998:48).
Mouti tou Arvili, then, appears to have been the first known
sanctuary to Adonis.
In addition to excavating on the slopes of Mouti tou Arvili in
the Adonis Temenos, the University of Arizona Expedition, and
then, after 2001, the Lycoming College Expedition to Idalion,
both under my direction, dug extensively in the Lower City. The
excavations found extensive small-scale industrial installations,
including horn working, the well-developed olive-oil pressing
operation first hinted at during the 1987 soundings, and a large
area that appears to be for levigating clay—perhaps preparatory
The fifth-century BCE altar from the Lower City Temenos shows a
stone-built structure with a deep ash pit in front of it, visible above
the scale.
Like the standing stones, the altar-and-ash-pit arrangement at Idalion
also finds parallels further east. Here we see the altar and ash pit in
the Small Temple at Dan, echoing the seventh-century altar at Idalion.
Photo by permission of the Biblical Archaeology Society.
60 NEAR EASTERN ARCHAEOLOGY 71:1–2 (2008)
to ceramic production. These installations seem to have first
been used in the Late Cypriot period, in the thirteenth century
BCE, and continued in use through the Hellenistic period and
into at least the first century CE.
At some time in the first century BCE, the largest of the settling
tanks (interpreted as clay processing tanks) was reused as a
bothros, a depository of sacred vessels and objects consecrated
to a deity but no longer in use. The oval pit cut into the virgin
marl is four to four and a half meters across and close to three
meters deep. It was full (to within twenty-five centimeters of
the modern ground level) with pottery and artifacts. At the top
was an earthen floor with a stone-built altar. Deposited off to
the side was a burnt offering: the distal end of the radius of a
sheep or goat (what we might call a lamb shank).
This discovery was made in 1995 and took through the 1998
season to excavate the bothros completely. Many of the finds
date to the Cypro-Geometric period, but the bulk of them were
created in the Cypro-Archaic period. The magnitude of this
sacred deposit made it seem extremely likely that there was a
sanctuary in the immediate vicinity.
Since the bothros was found at the extreme northern edge
of the excavated area of the Lower City, I reasoned that
the sanctuary whose objects it contained must be nearby.
Accordingly, in 1998, I determined that it would be prudent to
extend our excavations to the south where we would be likely to
find more of the domestic and industrial complex of the Lower
City. Not to put too fine a point on it, we had already spent
years excavating one temenos, and I had no desire to spend
scarce resources investigating another. In fact, we decided to
site our new trenches just below the terrace of Ambelleri on
which Hadjicosti’s team had found the Late Cypro-Archaic
installations, thinking that we were most likely to find more
early industrial installations there.
Instead we found a sanctuary devoted to a pair of deities,
a male and a female. The votive figures dedicated in this
shrine during the Cypro-Archaic period were in many cases
incorporated into the rebuilt walls of the late Hellenistic/Early
Roman period in the first century BCE. This is noteworthy, since
we have excavated many walls of the period elsewhere on the
site, but only in the sanctuary walls themselves was statuary
included among the building stones.
Perhaps these figures, once donated as gifts to the deity, could
not be used in any other structures. They could, presumably,
have been buried with the broken terracottas in the bothros,
but that would have been a waste of good building stone, after
all. There can be little doubt that the sanctuary of the “Divine
Pair” was the source of the objects deposited in this bothros.
The founding levels in the western rooms of the temenos in
the southern Lower City lie immediately above the limestone
bedrock. On that Cypro-Geometric floor (about eighth century
BCE) in 2002 we uncovered a sherd of a large krater. A fragment
of the same vessel was found in the bothros in 1998.
The features of worship discovered in this shrine have more
in common with Israelite and Canaanite cult practices than
with anything known from the Aegean world. Most striking
are the standing stones, which were objects of worship in the
shrine, and most resemble miniatures of the pair of standing
stones found at Arad in Israel.
It must be remembered that the standing stones at Arad were
discovered buried (apparently at the end of the eighth century
BCE ) and their original position is unknown. It is perfectly
plausible to suggest that they originally stood side-by-side like
those at Idalion, found in situ.
In the same enclosure in the Lower City sanctuary at Idalion
were found a pair of stone-built altars, one earlier and one later,
each with an ash depository next to it. The earlier one had an
ash pit lined with a terracotta vessel, the same arrangement
found at the Small Temple at Dan in Israel. Finally, in this same
inner enclosure, was found a betyl in a pit, and just such an
installation is reported at Beth Shean in the Canaanite levels
(Yadin and Geva 1986).
What, then, can we suggest about the nature of the cult at
Idalion? Not a great deal, in fact. We may only observe that
worshippers at the shrine of this “Divine Pair” seem to have
observed the rites of their cult in some ways analogous to
rites practiced in the Levant. We do not, as yet, know which
deities these were, let alone whether they may also have been
worshipped in the Levant. This is the next part of the story of
the city-kingdom of Idalion to be investigated. It is, as always,
impossible to predict how the next chapter of the story will look
when the next phase of excavations are completed.
For now, we have a fairly coherent picture of the sequence of
history in the Yialias River Valley. The final piece (to date) was
provided by the work of the Aix en Provence team working at
nearby Potamia under the direction of Nolwyn Lecuyer in 2003.
Benoit Devillers, a young geomorphologist, was examining the
river valley in the region. He commented in 2002 that those
who had previously searched for the Bronze Age settlement
in the vicinity of nearby Ayios Sozomenos village had been
looking in the wrong place. Because hundreds of Bronze Age
tombs were found atop the plateau above the valley in the
nineteenth and twentieth centuries, previous archaeologists
had looked there and on the surface below for the settlement
associated with the tombs (Overbeck and Swiny 1972:7–31).
Devilliers asserted that, given the geological features of the
area and the nature of the river, the city settlement must
be located under meters of accumulated alluvium in the
plain below the plateau. In 2003 he directed deep cutting
operations to test this hypothesis and found evidence of an
extensive Bronze Age urban center at Kakoskalin near Ayios
Sozomenos (Devillers, Gaber, and Lecuyer 2005:85–92). Here
was the Bronze Age “parent” of the city-kingdom of Idalion.
Just as Salamis had Enkomi, Kition had Hala Sultan Tekke,
Paphos had Kouklia, Idalion had Kakoskalin. What other citykingdoms of the first millennium BCE will be shown to have
huge Bronze Age urban centers as predecessors? Will we find
the antecedents of Amathus? Ledra? Chytroi? And what does
it mean that new urban centers were founded at the end of the
Late Cypriot period? These questions have been the subject
of hot debate for decades in Cypriot archaeology, and every
decade our knowledge increases. In Idalion’s case we have
now found workshops of some kind involving the use of liquids
dating to the thirteenth century BCE.
The pottery from Kakoskalin includes a great deal of Middle
Cypriot black and red polished wares. There are a few pieces
with incised decoration that appear to be from the Late Cypriot
I period. In addition there are one or two tantalizing fragments
of Proto-Geometric pottery that seem to indicate an overlap
with the earliest levels at Idalion.
The History of Idalion Today
The current picture, then, of city-kingdom history as we see
it at Idalion has the following outlines:
• During the Middle and Late Cypriot periods (about 1900–
1000 BCE ) a huge urban center was situated across the
Yialias River at the location known as Kakoskalin, near
Ayios Sozomenos.
• Small-scale industrial and administrative installations on
and below Ambelleri at Idalion began in the Late Cypriot
period (about the thirteenth century BCE).
• Industrial installations expanded and sanctuaries were
founded in the Lower City of Idalion in the early CyproGeometric period (about eleventh century BCE).
• Monumental architecture appeared on the terrace of the
West Acropolis, perhaps including fortification, in the
Cypro-Geometric III period. This was almost certainly the
“Edi-il” of the Stele of Esarhaddon, first among the Cypriot
city-kingdoms paying him tribute in about 669 BCE.
• During the Cypro-Archaic period (about 700–475 BCE)
there was great expansion of monumental architecture on
Ambelleri, the terrace of the West Acropolis, and of the
domestic and industrial complex in the Lower City. The
kings of Idalion began to issue coinage.
• A huge fortification wall, ringing the Lower City and the
sanctuaries on the acropolis was constructed in about 500
BCE along with a citadel surrounding the administrative
center on Ambelleri.
• ªOzibaªal of Kition destroyed the administrative center in
about 450 BCE, while the domestic and industrial complex
in the Lower City enjoyed uninterrupted prosperity. The
Kitian administration rebuilt on Ambelleri and continued
to operate there until just before 300 BCE.
• About 312 BCE, when the Phoenician administrative center
was abandoned, a new, gypsum-faced complex was erected
across the road on the terrace of the East Acropolis, Mouti
tou Arvili, just below the Adonis Temenos. This was the
Hellenistic administrative center.
• During the next two Hellenistic centuries, the old
monumental architecture on the terrace of Ambelleri was
covered over and an industrial, copper-working platform
was put in place there. The town was organized according
to Hippodamean town planning, with insulae and a parallel
street grid.
• The city of Ledra to the north (currently being excavated
by the Department of Antiquities under the direction of
NEAR EASTERN ARCHAEOLOGY 71:1–2 (2008) 61
Despo Pilides) became the center of trade while Idalion
dwindled (Pilides 2004).
• In the middle of the first century BCE, the Romans took
over. They improved upon the copper industry, making
single-process, high-temperature smelting the rule. This
highly efficient process was carried out at the mining sites,
and no longer produced a “secondary ore” needing to be
refined at sites like Idalion and Tamassos (and no doubt
others). These way-stations for “secondary processing”
were no longer necessary. Furthermore, the primary eastwest highway now went through Ledra, accentuating its
importance and further diminishing the need for another
urban center so close by.
• During the Late Antique and Medieval periods, Idalion
shrank to an agricultural village hugging the banks of the
Yialias River.
• In 1974, after a coup d’etat and an invasion of Cyprus, the
then main road from Nicosia to Larnaca was severed. As
a result the road between the acropoleis of Idalion, Mouti
tou Arvili and Ambelleri, became once again the main route
to Kition (modern Larnaca) as it had been in ancient days.
The village of Dhali, direct descendant of the city-kingdom
of Idalion, immediately doubled in size. Then businesses
sprang up along the road over the next ten years.
• In the 1980s the highway from Nicosia to Limassol was
completed, leaving Dhali in easy commuting distance of
the nation’s capital.
• In the 1990s Dhali became a full-fledged suburb of Nicosia.
Thus the continuing discoveries at the site of the city-kingdom
of Idalion build upon one another—not always in a linear
fashion. Discovery builds upon discovery, each changing our
perception of past events and a distant echo of their motivations.
Such continuing work at every site on the island builds our
picture of life in ancient Cyprus. As our image of life in ancient
Cyprus comes into ever-sharper focus, we see life in the eastern
Mediterranean world more clearly.
As our own culture is a melding of the culture of the Ancient
Near East through biblical traditions, and the world of Greece
and Rome via the Enlightenment, so the life of ancient Cyprus
is vital to our understanding our cultural roots. It was on
Cyprus, more than anywhere else in the ancient world, after all,
where East met West.
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Pamela Gaber has been working at
Idalion in Cyprus since 1972 when she
went there as a graduate student. She has
been directing excavations at the site since
1987. Her training at Harvard was in
Near Eastern Languages and Literatures.
A Professor of Archaeology and Judaic
Studies at Lycoming College in Pennsylvania, Gaber’s abiding
interests include the relationship of the culture of ancient Cyprus
to the culture of ancient Israel and the Biblical world.
American Schools
of Oriental Research
2008
Annual
Meeting
November 19–22
Westin Waterfront Hotel
Boston
Massachusetts
Supersaver registration
deadline is Nov. 3, 2008
For more information:
http://www.asor.org/AM/am.html
NEAR EASTERN ARCHAEOLOGY 71:1–2 (2008) 63